Robert Wun's Unveils 10th Anniversary Collection, But Indian Designers Were trailblazers

Robert Wun recently marked a significant milestone with the 10th-anniversary celebration of his fashion label, presenting a new couture collection at the Hong Kong Palace Museum. This show, which featured 12 meticulously crafted pieces, was a poignant homecoming for the designer. The collection paid tribute to Wun’s grandmother and the indomitable spirit of Hong Kong women, embodying both strength and grace in its designs.

The collection showcased Wun’s signature blend of power and femininity through structured bodices, elaborate hats, and exaggerated faux nails. Adding a dramatic flair, models carried vintage-style cigarettes, releasing wisps of smoke that enhanced the show’s theatrical atmosphere. Known for his transformative designs that explore concepts like time and seasons, Wun's latest pieces subtly reflect the essence of Hong Kong. He draws on vivid personal memories—the bustling urban landscape, iconic ‘grandma shirts,’ and familiar street patterns—to capture the city's spirit without overtly portraying it. “I prefer not to present ‘Hong Kong’ directly. Honest expressions resonate more deeply with the audience,” Wun remarked.

Indian designers spearheaded the magical realism trend

While Wun’s fantastical approach may appear innovative, the exploration of magical realism in fashion is not new. Indian designers have long delved into this genre, blending the surreal with the tangible. Amit Aggarwal, for instance, recently unveiled his collection at FDCI India Couture Week, titled ANTEVORTA. Aggarwal’s designs explore the “cause-and-effect nature of time,” merging philosophical and cosmological concepts with fashion. “This collection reflects the relationship between time and the universe, emphasizing that nothing exists independently of it,” Aggarwal told Elle.

Similarly, Gaurav Gupta’s Couture Week collection, Arunodaya, represents the mystical transition from night to day, symbolizing renewal and boundless potential. Gupta’s work is an exploration of hope and transformation, deeply rooted in magical realism.

Ashish Gupta, though less conventional, incorporates the fantastical into his designs through his label Ashish. His use of sequins and trompe l’oeil effects creates an imaginative and political commentary on fashion. “Part of my attraction to sequins is the clash of high and low taste,” Gupta explained to the Guardian in 2023. His playful yet subversive approach introduces an artistic twist to the genre, embodying the essence of magical realism in a more grounded context.

The intersection of magic and realism has long been a significant aspect of high fashion. As designers like Cheney Chan, Maison Margiela, and Maison Schiaparelli continue to explore this space, Indian designers like Wun, Aggarwal, Gupta, and Gupta play a crucial role in shaping the genre. Their work underscores the rich tradition of blending the fantastical with the real, proving that this imaginative approach is deeply embedded in the fabric of contemporary fashion.