Sabyasachi issues 'response to open letter' by artisans over his collaboration with H&M

Sabyasachi Mukherjee became a talking point for various reasons after his recent collaboration with H&M. Not only did his collection spark memes over its designs, and a section was disappointed over it being sold in minutes, but Indian artisans also expressed their displeasure over the digitally printed designs having no connection with Indian craft. The designer now issued a statement in response to the open letter, stating that his Wanderlust collection was 'distinctly Indian' and that he continued to be a champion of the Indian 'karigar' (craftspeople).   

Sabyasachi issues response to open letter by Indian artisans on H&M collection

Sabyasachi started his statement by conveying his gratitude and appreciation towards the open letter on the concerns of the crafts and craftspeople. The designer stated that his collaboration with H&M was a 'capsule collection', where an international brand in invited and the collection caters to a wider customer base across the world. He added that it also offered a chance for designers to make creations more accessible to the larger high street market.  

He stated that while he championed the craftspeople and the great heritage of textiles and crafts, the 'Wanderlust' was not meant to be a substitute for couture or artisanal. Highlighting that his bridal wear and collaborations with Christian Louboutin and Bergdorf Goodman were all craft-based and artisanal, he stated that his mission was to elevate Indian craft into luxury, believing that mechanised will ''upgrade' to the artisanal and the consumer will also 'rise up to covert it for its real value'.   

He highlighted that Wanderlust had a 'different mission' and shared that it was a big win for India as the collection put India on the global map.  He stated that it stood in its own sector and was meant to reach out to more people.

Stating that 'Designed in India' should also be encouraged like 'Make in India, he called it as a 'wake-up call to the potential of India's entrepreneurship, design sensibilities and incredible scope of work and talent.'.

Sabyasachi then stated that he had three conditions for the Wanderlust collection with H&M. One was that it would be 'distinctly India' since that was who he and his brand was, the second that the majority of his collection would be 'made in India' by H& M a third, that H&M's first sari would be a part of this collection. 

He added that his inspirations for his design for the collection included travel, ancient cultures of the word, and th rich heritage of Indian crafts and textiles. But, giving an example, he stated that there was no replication of Sanganeri hand block prints, and only inspiration was taken from it, along with the French toile and chintz prints. He stated that it was not marketed or sold as a Sanganeri print or artisanal product since he was aware and 'deeply respectful of Indian crafts, Geographical Indication representation and the rights of our artisans'. 

He asserted that the collection was a message to the Indian designer on the potential of where fashion was heading. Stating that it was about celebrating one's individuality, he added that there was space for all of them in India and abroad for the artisanal, designer, scale and boutique.  

Indian artisans' open letter to Sabyasachi 

A national body of craftspersons, Dastkari Haat Samit, had written an open letter asking why no Indian artisan had been involved with the project. They highlighted the missed opportunity for the artisans, who were struggling to earn a living. It stated that the publicity material seemed to hint at it being associated with Indian craft, but there was no 'visible benefit' for the artisans.

Previously, posts on the Sabysachi x H&M collection being a common design seen in Bengali households and memes like Arshad Warsi in Golmaal wearing it first had made headlines. Its price Rs. 9999 too had attracted strong comments.

However, Sabyasachi issued a statement and apologised only on the disappointment of customers, including himself, being unable to buy the products due to its heavy demand and technical issues.