Is Your Banarasi Saree Authentic? How To Spot An Original From A Fake

Banarasi sarees have always been a cherished possession. Made only in Varanasi, one of the oldest known cities to man, Banarasi has even been mentioned in ancient texts as Hiranyavastra - which means golden cloth, owing to the golden sheen of the saree. However, in this day and age, where it is becoming increasingly difficult to differentiate between handloom and powerloom sarees, how can we identify an authentic Banarasi saree? Let us try to find out.

Look for handwoven fabric

Authentic Banarasi sarees are handwoven on traditional looms by skilled artisans. The fabric used is typically pure silk. Check the saree's fabric closely for fine weaving patterns, intricate designs, and a luxurious texture that is characteristic of handloom craftsmanship. Unlike power loom-made sarees, the back side of the design is not finely finished and has a few stray strands from the hand embroideries. Imperfections make this one of its kind saree perfect.

Examine the weaving technique

Banarasi sarees are renowned for their intricate weaving techniques, including brocade, zari, and butidar. Brocade involves weaving metallic threads into the fabric to create intricate patterns and motifs. Zari refers to the use of gold or silver threads, often coated with real gold or silver, to embellish the saree with shimmering designs. Butidar involves weaving small clusters of gold or silver threads throughout the fabric to create a textured effect. Inspect the saree closely for these intricate weaving techniques, which are a hallmark of authentic Banarasi sarees.

Check the design motifs

Authentic Banarasi sarees are adorned with elaborate motifs inspired by Mughal and Persian art, because it is during that era that they bloomed and became popular. Motifs include designs such as floral patterns, paisleys, geometric shapes, and intricate borders. Look for symmetrical and finely detailed designs that areneither too intricate, nor too huge. Traditional motifs like kalga, bel and jhallar are commonly found in authentic Banarasi sarees.

Assess the quality of Zari work

Zari work is a defining feature of Banarasi sarees, and high-quality zari is often used to embellish the borders, pallu, and body of the saree. Authentic Banarasi sarees use real gold or silver threads for zari work, resulting in a subtle yet timeless golden sheen. Check the saree's zari work for its brightness, sheen, and intricate detailing, as these are indicators of authenticity. If your saree is too lustrous, it is probably not authentic.

Verify the GI Tag

Authentic handwoven Banarasi sarees come with a GI Tag to verify their authenticity. Only sarees made in Varanasi can qualify as Banarasi saree. Ask for the GI certification, which indicates that it has been handcrafted by skilled artisans using traditional techniques. This certification ensures the quality and authenticity of the saree, giving you confidence in your purchase.

Price is an indicator

Handcrafted sarees take a lot of time, skill, labour and love, so it is only fair that the patrons compensate well for these intricately made Banarasi sarees. In this era of online shopping, do not fall for a discounted rate, thinking you are getting a good deal, when you might just be getting conned with a fake. Fairly priced sarees from authentic sellers and labels, with GI Tags should be your choice.