What Is Wagashi, Artistrocatic Dessert That Became Japan's Beloved Delicacy?

Wagashi, initially exclusive to the aristocracy and high priests, wagashi has grown to become a beloved national treat. Maegawa Kiyoaki, leading Kameyakiyonaga, a renowned Kyoto confectionery, upholds this sweet tradition. At 68, Kiyoaki has mastered the skill of crafting wagashi by observing and practicing. Today, he ensures his apprentices at Kameyakiyonaga practice daily to perfect their craft.

From an elite dessert to a national favourite

Specializing in kyogashi, a Kyoto-specific wagashi, the Kiyoaki family uses rice flour, beans, and sugar. The ingredients are heated, mixed into a paste, and strained to remove lumps, creating a smooth consistency. Wagashi comes in three main variants - han-namagashi, which ranges from gooey to dry; namagashi, known for its soft texture; and higashi, a dry version with a longer shelf life.

One of Kiyoaki’s notable creations is a namagashi shaped like a chrysanthemum flower, symbolizing fall and dyed pink. This delicate process uses a special tool called the sankaku-bera to sculpt the petals. Pastry chefs must work meticulously to avoid spoiling the treat with excess body heat. In Japan, chrysanthemums also symbolize longevity and rejuvenation. Through dedication and meticulous craftsmanship, the Kiyoaki family continues to preserve and elevate the tradition of wagashi, offering a taste of Japan’s rich culinary heritage to all.